When I set up this web page back in '98, free appraisals were a special feature. Because of the large number of responses I have received, I am no longer able to keep up with this service. Therefore, I have set up a self-appraisal department. Just follow the format and you should end up with a ballpark valuation of your board. First, grade your board, then apply the other factors listed. If you feel you have a special situation, follow the directions at the end of the department for a personal response. I will try my best to answer every question.
First Grade your board using the Bartlett 1-10 scale. One is the worst possible condition and going up to 10 for the best condition.

[10] Mint Condition. New. Showroom Quality. Never surfed. I mean never! No dings or scratches from shipping and storage. A few fingerprints. No repair work. Price tag still attached.
[9] Near New. Maybe surfed once or twice. One ding, expertly repaired and nearly invisible. Minor scratches and pressure dings from use.
[8] Very Good Condition. Two or three dings, repaired. Minor scratches and pressure dings from use. All original.
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[7] Good. Three to four dings, repaired. Sun discoloration present. Minor water damage. If you are surfing a classic longboard in this condition grade, expect comments in the water questioning your mental state like "Did you take your medicine this morning?"
[6] OK. Four or more dings, some unrepaired. Multiple scratches. Obvious sun and water damage. Surfers refer to these boards as "beaters." They are still buoyant enough to go out on Sundays and create a general nuisance. These boards are rampant at "Old Man's." Usually the surfer has surfed the same board since '65 and just can't seem to let go. Keep your distance from these guys in the water. Boards in this condition are also good for learners.
[5] Lousy. Slightly water logged. Well used. Obvious ding and sun damage. Unrepaired dings oozing water. Same wax for last ten years still on deck.
[4] Poor Condition. Structural damage such as buckling, delamination of fiberglass from foam core. Extensive water and sun damage. Do not bring a board in this condition to my brother for repair.
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[3] Muy Malo. Water logged from unrepaired dings. Strange odor. Missing parts. Tire marks from when it flew off of car and run over by the truck behind you. Possibly suitable for sawing up and making into furniture.
[2] Near Death. Can't tell condition because most of board is covered with duct tape. Gaping holes with swamp conditions inside of glass. New plant and animal life thriving inside. Your dog visited the outside recently.
[1] Dumpsite Quality. Dispose of properly. Do not incinerate. Not possible for sawing up and making into furniture.

Now that you have read through the scale you have a rough estimate of your board's grade. Most folks also use decimal points. For example, boards in very fine condition are usually classified as a 9.5. I have also indicated in the next section Other Important Factors that we use when we grade boards.

Other Important Factors
On the real old boards, fins were called "skegs" or "skags." As a general rule, it is very important to have the original fin. If you have, for example, a Dewey Weber with his famous hatchet fin like the one pictured on our page, it was popular to modify these by cutting them down. Today, this would lessen a board's value. Missing fins are a problem. In the late sixties, fin box set ups became more popular than glassed in fins probably because it made production easier and faster. But the fins sometimes got lost. This is a bad thing because it is very difficult to find these old fins. For a missing fin, or non-original fin, or a modified fin, subtract one full point.
Leash Plugs (or "kook connector")
If a leash plug (kook connector attachment laminated to rear deck of board) is on your classic longboard, it is non-original. Leash plugs were not commonly used until the seventies. Subtract one full point.
Deck Pads
Non-original equipment. If found on a classic longboard, subtract one full point.
At this point, it is worth mentioning mass-produced surfboards, or "pop-outs." During the sixties surf craze, manufacturers had difficulty keeping up with demand. If you lived in California at the time like we did, it seemed everybody had "strapped my board to my back and hitched a ride in my wetsuit," to find the "two girls for every boy." (Jan and Dean). The mythical lifestyle was portrayed in Hollywood movies (Beach Blanket Bingo), and music (Beachboys, Surfaris, Dick Dale and the DelTones among others), and the classic surf flick "Endless Summer." As a result of this, surfboards were made by some companies as fast as possible to satisfy demand of department stores and sporting goods shops. I have listed some common brand names of boards referred to as "pop-outs." If you have on of these boards, do not dispair, your board is still collectible. Apply the scale, but keep in mind, demand with serious collectors will not be as high with these boards.

Some Common Pop-out Trade Names
Dextra, Royal Hawaiian, Kahanamoku, Tiki, Keoki, Malibu, Pacific Plastics, Phil, Sportways, Surfboards Honolulu, Surfboards Miami
As a ballpark value, these boards are worth about $200 - $300 today (1999-2000) if they are in grade 7 or above. If you have one of these stock boards, you can stop here and use the ballpark figure suggested. If your board is not a pop-out continue.
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Special Art
Air brushing was popular in the seventies. Some very elaborate and fine work was done during this period. Look for and artist's signature. Art is good. Most classic longboards did not have art applied but used pigments applied as stripes or complete coloring.
Many manufacturers had stock boards and also "models." For example, Greg Noll was a major supplier during the sixties and his "da Kat" Mickey Dora model is very popular among collectors today. Hobie also made many stock boards, but the Gary Propper model is special. Model are good.
Special History
Documentation of important history unique to the board is very helpful. For example, if somebody claims their board was formerly owned by a famous surfer, it would be helpful to have a published photo showing the surfer riding the board. History is important, but like any collectible item, proper documentation is required to validate the history.
Serial Numbers
Unlike other collectible items, serial numbers are difficult to track with collectible surfboards. Many of the manufacturers lost the original records. Therefore serial numbers are helpful, but not definitive.
More helpful than serial numbers are the notations by the shaper. These usually appear immediately after the serial number. Look for serial numbers and initials written on the wood stringer on the deck opposite of the fin.
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Now that you have been through the self-appraisal process, compare your board to the ones in our Sales Department. Note, a collectible board does not have to be a perfect "10." I have seen some pretty rough boards sell for four figures in auctions before because they have something special about them.

If you believe your board is special, you may mail good quality photos and I will get back to you. Please mail your photos to me via ground mail, not e-mail. Include a self-addressed stamped envelope if you want your photos returned. There is still no charge for this service.
Keep surfing.
Jon Bartlett

271 Redwood Drive
Pasadena, CA 91105

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